Tomato Cherry Red Fig
$4.49
Lycopersicon Esculentum
- Seed Count 40
- Sweet Flavour
- Annual
Only 1 left in stock
Description
Tomato Cherry Red Fig is an heirloom variety dating back to the 18th century.
It produces 3-4 cm pear shaped tomatoes that have a very sweet flavour.
Historically, they were dried and packed away for winter use in substitute of figs.
Indeterminate, climbing variety. Requires staking.
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Method: Raise seedlings | Soil Temp: 16°C - 35°C |
Cool Mountain: Oct - Dec | Position: Full sun |
Arid: Aug - Mar | Row Spacing: 50cm |
Temperate: Aug - Dec | Planting Depth: 3mm |
Sub Tropical: Aug - Jan | Harvest: 80 Days |
Tropical: May - Jul | Plant Height: 2m |
Climate and Growing Conditions
Best Growing Seasons:
- In most regions of Australia, tomatoes generally thrive when planted from September to November (spring) and will produce through summer until April, depending on local climate.
- See individual climate zone information on the product description tab.
Ideal Temperature
- Tomatoes prefer daytime temperatures between 20-30°C.
- Nighttime temperatures should ideally be above 10°C to promote good fruit set.
Site Selection
Sunlight:
- Choose a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of full sunlight daily.
- Tomatoes grow best in warm, sunny spots.
Soil Type:
- Well-draining soil is crucial as tomatoes do not tolerate waterlogged conditions.
- Sandy loam or loamy soil enriched with organic material is ideal.
Soil Preparation
Soil Testing:
- Before planting, conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels.
Amending Soil:
- Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure.
- Aim for a pH level between 6.0 and 6.8 for optimal growth.
Loosening Soil:
- Work the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm and remove any debris or rocks.
Planting Instructions
Starting Seeds:
- Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date or plant seedlings from your local nursery.
Transplanting:
- Harden seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week before planting.
Spacing:
- Plant seedlings 60-90 cm apart to ensure adequate airflow and reduce the risk of diseases.
Watering Practices
Frequency:
- Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Aim for about 2-3 cm of water per week.
Method:
- Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to avoid wetting the foliage and minimize the risk of fungal diseases.
Signs of Water Stress:
- Monitor for wilting leaves (indicating too little water) or cracking fruit (indicating too much water).
Nutrient Management
Fertilisation:
- Use a balanced fertiliser (with equal N-P-K values) at planting.
- As plants grow and start flowering, switch to a fertiliser higher in phosphorus (the middle number of N-P-K) to promote fruiting.
Organic Options:
- Consider organic fertilizers like fish emulsion or seaweed extract.
Pest and Disease Management
Common Pests:
- Aphids: Small, green bugs that suck sap. Control them with insecticidal soap.
- Whiteflies: Small, flying pests; use yellow sticky traps to catch them.
- Tomato Hornworms: Large caterpillars that can defoliate plants.
- Handpick them off or use Dipel (Bacillus thuringiensis).
Diseases:
- Blight: Watch for yellowing leaves and brown spots. Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering.
- Powdery Mildew: Look for a white powdery substance on leaves. Improve air circulation and treat with fungicides if necessary.
Pruning and Supporting Plants
Pruning:
- Regularly remove suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to encourage better air circulation and direct energy to fruit production.
Support:
- Use cages or stakes to support indeterminate varieties, which continue to grow throughout the season, preventing fruits from touching the ground.
Harvesting and Storage
Timing:
- Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully coloured and slightly firm.
- Most tomatoes will ripen on the vine; pick them just before full ripeness in very hot conditions.
Storage:
- Store harvested tomatoes at room temperature, away from sunlight, for optimal flavour and texture.
- Avoid refrigerating as it can change the texture and flavour.
Blossom End Rot
Overview:
- Blossom end rot is a common physiological disorder that affects tomatoes and other fruits, characterized by a dark, sunken spot on the blossom end of the fruit.
- It is not a disease caused by pathogens but rather a symptom of nutrient imbalance and environmental stress.
Causes
- Calcium Deficiency: The primary cause of blossom end rot is a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. Calcium is essential for cell wall structure and growth.
- Inconsistent Watering: Fluctuations in soil moisture can inhibit the plant’s ability to uptake calcium. Periods of drought followed by heavy watering can exacerbate the problem.
- High Nitrogen Levels: Excessive nitrogen fertilization can promote leafy growth at the expense of fruit development, leading to calcium deficiency in the fruit.
- Soil pH and Conditions: Soil with low pH or poor drainage can affect calcium availability in the soil.
Symptoms
- Dark, sunken spots usually appear at the blossom end (the bottom) of the fruit.
- The affected area often becomes soft, and the fruit may rot if not harvested promptly.
- Symptoms tend to occur on the first few fruits developed on the plant, particularly during the early fruiting stage.
Prevention
Soil Testing:
- Conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels before planting.
- Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Consistent Watering:
- Maintain even soil moisture by watering regularly, especially during dry spells.
- A deep watering once a week is better than shallow, frequent watering.
Balanced Fertilization:
- Use a balanced fertilizer, being cautious not to over-fertilize with nitrogen.
- A fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number in N-P-K) can help promote healthy fruit development.
- Consider also using calcium supplements like gypsum or lime if needed.
Mulching:
- Mulch around the base of the plants with organic material to help retain moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Remove Affected Fruits:
- While you can’t save the already affected fruits, removing them can help the plant redirect energy toward developing healthy fruit.
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