Tomato Campbell 33
$4.49
Lycopersicon Esculentum
- Seed Count 40
- Professional Variety
- Annual
In stock
Description
Tomato Campbell 33 is an old commercial heirloom tomato perfect for making soups or for eating fresh.
It has strong branches with deep green foliage and it sets fruit well in poor conditions.
It possesses beautiful flavours, and is a suitable for both the home gardener and professional growers.
Determinate, bush variety. Does not need staking
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Method: Raise seedlings | Soil Temp: 16°C - 35°C |
Cool Mountain: Oct - Dec | Position: Full sun |
Arid: Aug - Mar | Row Spacing: 50 cm |
Temperate: Aug - Dec | Planting Depth: 3mm |
Sub Tropical: Aug - Jan | Harvest: 80 Days |
Tropical: May - Jul | Plant Height: 1m |
Climate and Growing Conditions
Best Growing Seasons:
- In most regions of Australia, tomatoes generally thrive when planted from September to November (spring) and will produce through summer until April, depending on local climate.
- See individual climate zone information on the product description tab.
Ideal Temperature
- Tomatoes prefer daytime temperatures between 20-30°C.
- Nighttime temperatures should ideally be above 10°C to promote good fruit set.
Site Selection
Sunlight:
- Choose a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of full sunlight daily.
- Tomatoes grow best in warm, sunny spots.
Soil Type:
- Well-draining soil is crucial as tomatoes do not tolerate waterlogged conditions.
- Sandy loam or loamy soil enriched with organic material is ideal.
Soil Preparation
Soil Testing:
- Before planting, conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels.
Amending Soil:
- Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure.
- Aim for a pH level between 6.0 and 6.8 for optimal growth.
Loosening Soil:
- Work the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm and remove any debris or rocks.
Planting Instructions
Starting Seeds:
- Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date or plant seedlings from your local nursery.
Transplanting:
- Harden seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week before planting.
Spacing:
- Plant seedlings 60-90 cm apart to ensure adequate airflow and reduce the risk of diseases.
Watering Practices
Frequency:
- Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry periods. Aim for about 2-3 cm of water per week.
Method:
- Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to avoid wetting the foliage and minimize the risk of fungal diseases.
Signs of Water Stress:
- Monitor for wilting leaves (indicating too little water) or cracking fruit (indicating too much water).
Nutrient Management
Fertilisation:
- Use a balanced fertiliser (with equal N-P-K values) at planting.
- As plants grow and start flowering, switch to a fertiliser higher in phosphorus (the middle number of N-P-K) to promote fruiting.
Organic Options:
- Consider organic fertilizers like fish emulsion or seaweed extract.
Pest and Disease Management
Common Pests:
- Aphids: Small, green bugs that suck sap. Control them with insecticidal soap.
- Whiteflies: Small, flying pests; use yellow sticky traps to catch them.
- Tomato Hornworms: Large caterpillars that can defoliate plants.
- Handpick them off or use Dipel (Bacillus thuringiensis).
Diseases:
- Blight: Watch for yellowing leaves and brown spots. Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering.
- Powdery Mildew: Look for a white powdery substance on leaves. Improve air circulation and treat with fungicides if necessary.
Pruning and Supporting Plants
Pruning:
- Regularly remove suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to encourage better air circulation and direct energy to fruit production.
Support:
- Use cages or stakes to support indeterminate varieties, which continue to grow throughout the season, preventing fruits from touching the ground.
Harvesting and Storage
Timing:
- Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully coloured and slightly firm.
- Most tomatoes will ripen on the vine; pick them just before full ripeness in very hot conditions.
Storage:
- Store harvested tomatoes at room temperature, away from sunlight, for optimal flavour and texture.
- Avoid refrigerating as it can change the texture and flavour.
Blossom End Rot
Overview:
- Blossom end rot is a common physiological disorder that affects tomatoes and other fruits, characterized by a dark, sunken spot on the blossom end of the fruit.
- It is not a disease caused by pathogens but rather a symptom of nutrient imbalance and environmental stress.
Causes
- Calcium Deficiency: The primary cause of blossom end rot is a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. Calcium is essential for cell wall structure and growth.
- Inconsistent Watering: Fluctuations in soil moisture can inhibit the plant’s ability to uptake calcium. Periods of drought followed by heavy watering can exacerbate the problem.
- High Nitrogen Levels: Excessive nitrogen fertilization can promote leafy growth at the expense of fruit development, leading to calcium deficiency in the fruit.
- Soil pH and Conditions: Soil with low pH or poor drainage can affect calcium availability in the soil.
Symptoms
- Dark, sunken spots usually appear at the blossom end (the bottom) of the fruit.
- The affected area often becomes soft, and the fruit may rot if not harvested promptly.
- Symptoms tend to occur on the first few fruits developed on the plant, particularly during the early fruiting stage.
Prevention
Soil Testing:
- Conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels before planting.
- Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 6.8.
Consistent Watering:
- Maintain even soil moisture by watering regularly, especially during dry spells.
- A deep watering once a week is better than shallow, frequent watering.
Balanced Fertilization:
- Use a balanced fertilizer, being cautious not to over-fertilize with nitrogen.
- A fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number in N-P-K) can help promote healthy fruit development.
- Consider also using calcium supplements like gypsum or lime if needed.
Mulching:
- Mulch around the base of the plants with organic material to help retain moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Remove Affected Fruits:
- While you can’t save the already affected fruits, removing them can help the plant redirect energy toward developing healthy fruit.
Well packaged and great information listed on the packet.