Asparagus Pea
$4.95
Tetragonolobus Purpureus
- Seed Count 7
- Edible And Ornamental
- Annual
- Height 30 cm
Only 6 left in stock
Description
The asparagus pea is one of the prettiest vegetables on the planet. It is a scrambling plant native to the Mediterranean region of southern Europe, where it is a common spring-blooming wildflower. Growing around 30 cm tall and 60cm wide, the plant has small trifoliate leaves, and deep crimson flowers.
Its nutty, asparagus-flavoured pods are extremely popular in the Mediterranean and an expensive delicacy in Australia. This delicious, ornamental plant is so easy to grow and cook โ try it sautรฉed, steamed, stir-fried, battered and deep-fried, or pickled and the scarlet flowers are a beautiful garnish.
Harvest pods when approximately 2.5cm long.ย Asparagus pea is easy to cultivate. It needs average moisture, full sun, and ordinary soil. It needs a long growing season to flower and fruit properly, so start it indoors in cooler areas.
| Method: Sow direct | Soil Temp: 15ยฐC - 20ยฐC |
| Cool Mountain: Oct - Dec | Position: Full sun |
| Arid: Aug - Mar | Row Spacing: 25cm apart |
| Temperate: Sep - Jan | Planting Depth: 1 cm |
| Sub Tropical: Aug - Mar | Harvest: 80 Days |
| Tropical: Mar - Jun | Plant Height: 60cm |
๐ฑ Asparagus Pea Grow Guide
๐ฟ Overview
Asparagus pea is a charming, low-growing edible plant grown for its unusual winged pods, attractive red flowers, and delicate garden habit. The young pods are the main harvest, and they are best picked while small, tender, and still crisp. Their flavour is often described as mildly pea-like with a hint of asparagus, especially when lightly cooked.
This plant is both ornamental and useful. It works well in vegetable beds, cottage gardens, edible borders, containers, and pollinator-friendly plantings. The flowers are decorative enough to earn a place among ornamentals, while the pods provide a small but interesting kitchen harvest.
Asparagus pea is not a heavy-yielding crop in the same way as climbing beans or snow peas, but it is rewarding for gardeners who enjoy unusual edible plants. Regular picking is important because the pods quickly become tough and fibrous if left too long.
๐ฑ Sowing in Trays vs Direct Sowing
Asparagus pea can be grown either by direct sowing or by starting in trays, but direct sowing is usually the best method. Like many pea-family plants, it does not enjoy unnecessary root disturbance. Sowing where it is to grow allows the roots to establish naturally and reduces transplant stress.
For direct sowing, prepare a fine, weed-free seedbed. Sow the seeds into moist, well-drained soil and cover lightly. Keep the soil evenly moist until seedlings emerge. If sowing several seeds together, thin to the strongest plants once they are large enough to handle. Young seedlings should be protected from slugs, snails, birds, and heavy competition from weeds.
Tray sowing can still be useful if pests are a problem or if the garden bed is not ready. If using this method, sow into individual cells, tubes, or small pots rather than a shared tray. This makes transplanting easier and avoids teasing roots apart. Plant seedlings out while they are still young, before they become root-bound. Handle the root ball gently and avoid disturbing the roots.
For asparagus pea, direct sowing is recommended where conditions are suitable. If protection is needed, individual pots are the next-best option.
๐ง Seed Pre-Treatment
Asparagus pea seed does not usually require special pre-treatment, but soaking can be helpful if the seed is older or very dry. A short soak in room-temperature water for several hours, or overnight, can help the seed absorb moisture more evenly and may speed germination.
Do not soak the seed for too long, as overly wet seed can rot before it germinates. After soaking, sow promptly into moist, free-draining soil or seed-raising mix.
If the seed coat seems very hard, gently rubbing one small area with fine sandpaper before soaking can help water enter. This is optional and should be done lightly. The aim is to weaken the outer coat slightly, not damage the seed inside.
๐ Soil and Position
Asparagus pea grows best in a sunny position with well-drained soil. It can tolerate light shade, but stronger light encourages better flowering, sturdier growth, and more pod production. Good airflow also helps reduce fungal issues and keeps the low-growing plants healthier.
The soil should be loose, fertile, and free-draining. Before sowing, improve the bed with compost or well-rotted organic matter. The soil should hold some moisture but should not remain soggy. Heavy wet soil can cause poor germination, weak growth, and root problems.
Avoid over-rich soil and excessive nitrogen fertiliser. Asparagus pea is a legume and can produce too much leafy growth if overfed. A moderate amount of compost is usually enough. If soil is poor, use a balanced organic fertiliser lightly rather than applying strong feeds.
In containers, use a quality vegetable potting mix with good drainage. Choose a pot that is wide enough to allow the plants to spread slightly, as asparagus pea forms a low, branching habit rather than a tall climbing vine.
๐ฟ Care and Maintenance
Asparagus pea is fairly easy to care for once established. Keep the soil evenly moist, especially during flowering and pod formation. Dry stress can reduce pod production and make pods tougher. Water deeply when needed, but avoid waterlogging.
Mulch lightly around the plants once they are established. Mulch helps conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and protect the soil surface. Keep mulch away from the main stems so the crown does not stay damp.
Weed control is important while plants are young. Asparagus pea is not a tall or aggressive crop, so weeds can easily shade or crowd it. Remove weeds carefully by hand to avoid disturbing the shallow roots.
Feeding should be gentle. A little compost or a mild liquid feed can support steady growth, but heavy fertilising is unnecessary. Too much nitrogen may produce leafy plants with fewer flowers and pods.
Plants may benefit from short twiggy supports, especially if they sprawl or if airflow is poor. They do not need a tall trellis, but light support can keep stems off the soil and make harvesting easier.
Harvest frequently. Regular picking encourages continued flowering and pod production. Once pods are allowed to mature fully, the plant may slow down and put more energy into seed formation.
๐ผ Companion Planting Guide
Asparagus pea grows well with companions that enjoy similar sunny, well-drained conditions and do not overwhelm its low growth. Good companions include lettuce, radish, carrot, beetroot, spring onion, chives, parsley, coriander, dill, calendula, alyssum, marigold, nasturtium, borage, and low-growing herbs.
Flowers such as alyssum, calendula, borage, marigold, and nasturtium help attract bees and beneficial insects. This is useful because good insect activity supports flowering and pod set.
Leafy crops such as lettuce can grow nearby if they do not shade the asparagus pea. Root crops such as carrot, radish, and beetroot are suitable because they occupy a different space in the bed and do not usually compete too heavily above ground.
Avoid planting asparagus pea beside vigorous sprawling crops that will smother it, such as pumpkins, melons, or large cucumbers. Also avoid crowding it under tall, dense plants that block light and airflow.
๐งบ How to Harvest
Harvest asparagus pea pods while they are very young and tender. The best pods are usually small, crisp, and still flexible. Once pods become large, firm, or fibrous, they lose their pleasant texture and are much less enjoyable to eat.
Pick regularly by pinching or snipping pods from the plant. Avoid pulling roughly, as the stems can be delicate. Frequent harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing flowers and new pods.
Young pods are best cooked lightly. They can be steamed, sautรฉed, stir-fried, added to soups, or used as a small side vegetable. They are usually better cooked than eaten raw, as cooking improves the texture and flavour.
The flowers are attractive and can also be used sparingly as an edible garnish if the plant has been grown without unsafe sprays. However, if your goal is pod production, leave plenty of flowers on the plant so they can develop into harvestable pods.
โ ๏ธ Common Issues and Fixes
| Issue | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Poor germination | Old seed, dry soil, seed buried too deeply, overly wet soil | Use fresh seed, sow at a moderate depth, keep soil moist but not soggy |
| Seed rotting | Heavy wet soil, poor drainage, soaking too long | Use free-draining soil, avoid waterlogging, soak only briefly if needed |
| Seedlings disappearing | Slugs, snails, birds, or chewing insects | Protect young seedlings, check at night, use barriers, keep beds tidy |
| Slow growth | Cold soil, poor light, low fertility, weed competition | Improve light, remove weeds, add compost, keep soil evenly moist |
| Lots of leaves but few pods | Too much nitrogen, not enough sun | Reduce feeding, avoid high-nitrogen fertiliser, grow in stronger light |
| Flowers dropping | Dry stress, heat stress, poor pollination, weak plants | Water consistently, mulch lightly, attract pollinators |
| Few flowers | Too much shade, overcrowding, excess feeding | Improve spacing, increase sun exposure, feed less heavily |
| Pods tough and stringy | Harvested too late | Pick pods young and often |
| Yellowing leaves | Overwatering, poor drainage, nutrient imbalance, natural ageing | Check soil moisture, improve drainage, apply mild feed only if needed |
| Powdery white leaves | Poor airflow, plant stress, dry roots | Space plants well, water deeply at soil level, remove badly affected leaves |
| Aphids on soft growth | Tender new shoots, low beneficial insect activity | Spray off with water, encourage ladybirds and hoverflies, avoid overfeeding |
| Plants sprawling on soil | Natural low habit, lack of support, crowded growth | Use twiggy supports, improve spacing, mulch underneath |
| Chewed leaves or pods | Caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, slugs or snails | Inspect regularly, hand-remove pests, protect young plants |
๐พ Detailed Seed Saving Guide
Saving asparagus pea seed is straightforward. Begin by choosing the healthiest and most productive plants. Select plants with strong growth, good flowering, tender pods, compact habit, and resistance to common problems. Avoid saving seed from weak, diseased, or poorly productive plants.
Allow selected pods to remain on the plant until they become fully mature. For eating, pods are picked young, but for seed saving they must be left much longer. Mature pods will become larger, tougher, darker, and dry. The seeds inside should become firm and fully developed.
Once pods are dry or nearly dry, pick them and place them in a paper bag or on a clean tray. If damp weather threatens, harvest mature pods and finish drying them in a warm, airy, shaded place. Do not seal fresh pods in plastic, as trapped moisture can cause mould.
When the pods are crisp, split them open and remove the seeds. Good seed should be firm, plump, and dry. Discard any seed that is shrivelled, soft, mouldy, insect-damaged, or unusually small.
Spread the seed in a single layer on a plate, tray, or fine mesh screen for several more days to ensure it is completely dry. This final drying step is important because seed stored with hidden moisture can spoil.
Store the seed in a labelled paper envelope or airtight jar. Include the crop name, variety if known, parent plant notes, and year collected. Keep the seed in a cool, dark, dry place. A small moisture absorber can be added to the storage jar in humid conditions.
For best results, save seed from several healthy plants rather than just one. This helps maintain vigour and gives a stronger selection of seedlings in future plantings.
๐ Final Thoughts
Asparagus pea is a delightful crop for gardeners who enjoy unusual, attractive, edible plants. It offers ornamental red flowers, interesting winged pods, and a compact habit that suits small gardens, edible borders, and containers.
The keys to success are direct sowing, gentle moisture, well-drained soil, full sun, light feeding, good weed control, and frequent harvesting while pods are young. It is not the heaviest cropping vegetable, but it is charming, useful, and well worth growing for its flavour, beauty, and seed-saving ease.
???? Starting Peas from Seed: Trays vs. Direct Sowing
Direct sowing is usually the go-to for peas. Their roots donโt love being disturbed, and they shoot up quickly once the soil is right. Sow directly into your garden beds as soon as the soil starts to coolโlate summer to early autumn in warmer zones, and late winter to early spring in cooler ones.
That said, starting in trays or punnets can still work well, especially if:
- You have problems with mice, slugs, or birds stealing your seeds
- You want a head start in late summer or early spring
- Youโre planting into heavy clay or poorly draining soils
If you go the tray route, use deep modules (like toilet rolls or root trainers) to give their long taproots room to stretch. Harden them off before planting and transplant gently to minimise root disturbance.
???? Seed Pre-treatment: Is It Necessary?
Pea seeds are plump and eager, so they donโt need much fussing. But if your soil is dry or cold, soaking seeds for 6โ12 hours before sowing can help them germinate faster. Just donโt soak them too longโthey can turn mushy.
Some gardeners like to inoculate pea seeds with Rhizobium bacteria to help nitrogen-fixing nodules form on the roots. Itโs optional, but it can give your crop a boost in very poor soils or new garden beds.
???? Soil and Position
Peas are sun lovers and thrive in full sun (at least 6 hours a day). Choose a position with:
- Well-drained soilโthey hate wet feet
- Slightly alkaline pH (6.5โ7.5)
- Shelter from strong winds, especially for tall varieties
Before sowing, dig in compost or aged manure and a light handful of lime if your soil is acidic. Avoid fresh manure or high-nitrogen fertilisers, as peas fix their own nitrogen and too much can cause leafy growth at the expense of pods.
Mulching after germination will help keep roots cool and reduce evaporation.
????๏ธ Care and Maintenance
Peas are low-fuss, but they do appreciate a bit of thoughtful care:
- Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially during flowering and pod formation.
- Support: Most varieties need some kind of trellis, sticks, string netting or lattice to climb. Even dwarf types benefit from a little support.
- Feeding: Feed lightly with a seaweed solution during flowering. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds.
- Weeding: Keep beds weed-free to reduce competition.
Regular picking encourages more pods. Let them go too long and theyโll stop producing!
???? Companion Planting Guide
Peas play nicely with most garden friends, and they help enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Good companions:
- Carrots
- Turnips
- Radishes
- Lettuce
- Spinach
- Beans
- Corn
Avoid planting with:
- Onions
- Garlic
- Leeks
- Shallots
(These alliums can inhibit pea growth.)
???? Harvesting Peas
Peas are best picked young and tender, just as the pods fill out. Taste is the real testโsweet and crunchy means theyโre just right.
- Snow peas are harvested flat before the peas swell
- Sugar snap peas when the pods are plump but still crisp
- Shelling peas when the pods are full, and peas are round and sweet
Pick regularly (every 1โ2 days) to encourage continuous flowering. Use two hands to avoid snapping the vine.
???? Common Issues and Fixes
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Seeds rot or fail to germinate | Cold, wet soil | Wait for soil to warm, sow shallower, or start in trays |
| Leaves yellow or growth stunted | Poor drainage, waterlogging | Improve soil with compost and check drainage |
| Powdery mildew | Fungal disease in humid conditions | Ensure good air flow, avoid overhead watering, use sulphur spray |
| Aphids or mites | Sap-sucking pests | Hose off, attract beneficial insects like ladybirds |
| Pea moth or caterpillars | Larvae inside pods | Use netting if needed, remove damaged pods |
| Plants stop producing | Pods left too long, too much heat | Pick regularly, mulch well, sow successively for a longer harvest |
???? Seed Saving Guide
Saving pea seeds is a beautiful, satisfying stepโpeas are self-pollinating, so what you grow will come true to type if isolated from other varieties.
How to Save Pea Seeds:
- Choose your best plants: Look for healthy, productive vines with true-to-type pods.
- Let pods fully mature on the plant: Theyโll turn brown and dry on the vine.
- Harvest on a dry day: Shell pods and dry the seeds for another week indoors.
- Label and store: Keep seeds in a paper envelope or glass jar in a cool, dry place. They can last 3โ5 years stored well.
Tip: If itโs too wet to let pods dry on the vine, pull up the whole plant and hang it upside down somewhere sheltered.
???? Final Thoughts
Peas are one of those garden crops that feel generous. Theyโre easy to start, fast to grow, and full of personality. They teach us about patience, timing, and the magic of cool-season growing.
If youโve never grown peas before, just start with a few rows or potsโonce you hear that satisfying snap of a fresh pod, youโll be hooked. And if youโre a seasoned grower, you already know: every autumn or late winter, the pea patch calls again.
Happy sowing, and may your pods be sweet and your trellises tangled with green! ????
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Not only are our seeds packed in recycled paper envelopes, we keep the theme going when we post out website orders. To protect your seeds from moisture and the letter box munchers (snails), we use a very special plastic free material made from plants. They are then put into recycled mailing envelopes. Green all the way ????????
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We take great care to make sure your seeds arrive safely. If your order is lost or damaged in transit, weโll happily send a replacement. Unfortunately, we canโt replace or refund orders that arrive later than the estimated delivery date, as delays can sometimes occur that are outside our control.
Please note that all dispatch and delivery times listed are estimates only. While we do our best to post promptly, delivery timeframes can vary due to postal service delays, weather events, or other unforeseen circumstances. Weโre unable to take responsibility for any loss, damage, or cost that results from a late delivery.
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